Beer Belly Deli & Pub is the definition of a hole in the wall. Overshadowed by the Westcott Theater’s bright lights, the street community’s newest gastropub is easy to miss. But once you notice it, Beer Belly makes the overlooked strip of the otherwise energetic Westcott Street come alive.

As our friendly waitress handed us our menus, one of my dining partners was disappointed to hear that the restaurant was out of bacon for the BLT as well as the sweet potato tater tots, which I was eager to try. But I got over it when I saw the Beer Battered Eggplant Sandwich ($8). I don’t love beer, but I love beer-battered anything, and eggplant was a new one for me. The flaky coating was crisp but thin and did not overpower the olive mix and the crisp arugula leaves. The beer flavor was distinct and, mixed with the pepper aioli, an unexpected complement to the eggplant.

My friend decided on the Miller High Life and brown sugar-glazed ham sandwich ($10) instead and was more than satisfied with the generous stack of ham. The meat was tender, perfectly blending savory and sweet, while the oozing cheddar cheese provided a sharp kick. My favorite part was the pungent tarragon mustard that blended the peppery taste of mustard and the slightly bittersweet flavor of tarragon that left a tingling sensation in your nose after each bite. Both sandwiches came on grilled ciabatta bread that was crisp and firm, but also soft to bite into.

Each of the sandwiches also comes with one of Beer Belly’s appetizing sides. I ordered the sweet potato waffle fries with beer ketchup — a blend of ketchup, beer and sriracha, a Thai hot sauce. You could really taste the malt flavor from the beer, and the sriracha provided heat without being spicy. Our waitress was nice enough to also bring us the maple garlic aioli that the tater tots usually come with. The creamy dip was sweet, but had a garlic finish that satisfied all my taste buds.

As we chatted over our food, we took our time eating, not realizing we ended up staying for over an hour, which is how you should feel when you have a great meal with attentive service. It was still early in the night, but the place started to slowly fill up with people at the bar and a long table of friends laughing over drinks. My dining partners and I didn’t indulge in any drinks, but one glance over the drink menu, and it was clear that the place was called Beer Belly for a reason, though they offer quite a few wines as well that are all reasonably priced, just like the food.

The most affordable items were on the Snacks part of the menu. My other two dining partners weren’t too hungry, so the grilled cheese with tarragon mustard and sliced tomato ($3) and the peanut butter and strawberry port jelly ($4) were just what they needed.

The grilled cheese was gooey and crisp like a good grilled cheese should be. But with the added freshness from the tomato and the bite of the tarragon mustard, this sandwich outdid itself. The PB&J had me skeptical because I’m not a huge fan of the classic sandwich, but the strawberry port jelly converted me almost instantly.

The atmosphere felt akin to a bar downtown. The decor was sparse, but it felt warm and inviting; the ambiance was lively, though people were just starting to trickle in; the vibe was rhythmic, but there was no music to carry a beat.

Gastropubs are generally celebrated as lively social spots that marry global flavor inspirations with traditional pub fair. Beer Belly Deli hits the nail right on the head and brings a distinct vibe and variety to Westcott Street in service, decor and food.

Published on November 14, 2012 at 1:42 am

Contact Danielle: dmodiama@syr.edu | @daniemarieodie