Generations of American travelers have long marveled at places marked by their beautiful women: Parisian mademoiselles in perfectly tailored clothing; tall, robust Scandinavian blondes; and Brazilian beauty queens and Victoria Secret models.

But as particular travel destinations come in and out of fashion, the loveliness of their ladies fades to history. Such was the case of today’s dark horse. Post-Civil War Beirut, once referred to as the Paris of the Middle East and back on the rise after The New York Times dubbed it ‘party capital’ in 2009, has developed a reputation among its tourists for ultra-feminine, perfectly coiffed women.  To many men, this may offer new, perhaps unexpected, incentive to travel to the Middle East, but it has made packing for my two-month, business casual internship in the dead heat and humidity of the Mediterranean summer a complete guessing game.

The last two weeks of blind preparation made clear to me how spoiled American women are in the luxuries of unabashed summer comfort — flip flops, cutoff jeans, Soffe shorts, ribbed Hanes tank tops, flannel and the messy bun. Though they may all represent huge affronts to women’s fashion, none can argue against their incredible practicality and, as it happens, American society’s acceptance of them at nearly any summer occasion.

I would never wear any of these items to an internship. But were I working at a magazine in Manhattan, I would know exactly how to pack: one bag of black pumps, pencil skirts and little black dresses, another with tank tops, jean shorts and sandals. A perfect mixture of summer professional and summer casual complete.

At least half of the women I speak with about my trip and a handful of fatherly, concerned men made this all the more confusing by assuming I’ll have to wear a headscarf, sometimes referring to it as a burqa, conflating Lebanon’s Arab identity with Islam and conservatism. To set the record straight a headscarf and burqa are not synonyms, a burqa is strictly used to describe the floor-length sheet, usually light blue, with a grate for the eyes, which Afghan women are often depicted wearing.

No, Lebanon does not, by law or social custom, oblige women to wear a veil of any variety, or even to dress conservatively for that matter.  Lebanon is approximately 39 percent Christian, the U.S. State Department estimates, in addition to the many Sunni Muslims of cosmopolitan Beirut who forego the veil, as well. So to my great distress, Lebanese social custom merely dictates that its visitors, men and women, alike, look good – very, very good.

Obsessing over the details of my wardrobe may seem trivial when history-making, policy-shattering upheaval has surrounded Lebanon since January. But in such tenuous times, when things remain so unsteady the  State Department seriously warns against exactly what I’m doing, learning about the nuances of Arab society and questioning old assumptions becomes a simple way to tip a hat to these struggles for democracy. Issues like money, gender, sexual freedom and violence are all wrapped up in fashion and defying local custom anywhere in the world is in poor taste, if not dangerous.

So with a desire not to draw unwanted attention to myself but maintain a level of professional sophistication and Beirut-y stylishness, all the while keeping in mind a scorching, sticky commute on a crowded bus and being wary of my suitcase dimensions, I embark on a search for appropriate clothes. Into my suitcase goes a pair of grey linen pants from Urban Outfitters, a half dozen summery, maxi dresses, a variety of silky blouses and one guiltily stashed pair of jean cutoff shorts.

The story ends happily. My obsession with adhering to the demands of Beirut ‘s impeccable stylishness while balancing a host of personal tastes, professional demands and an American attachment to comfort yielded a wardrobe of simple elegance.

Beckie Strum is the editorial editor and a senior newspaper and Middle Eastern studies major. To read more about her experiences in Beirut, Lebanon, where she is a summer intern with Time Out Beirut magazine, visit her blog at beckiestrum.wordpress.com. She can be reached at rastrum@syr.edu.

Published on May 28, 2011 at 12:00 pm